Day 4 Apple trekking
[Uttarkashi – Dharali – Gangotri]
We got up early in the morning and began to get ready, afterall
we didn’t want to miss out precious day-light to our laziness. There was
provision of hot water in the bathroom and we decided to make full use of it
since we didn’t know when next we’ll get this luxury. Finally, we were out of
the lodge by 6:30 AM. Our plan was to cover the 94 kms distance to Gangotri by
the day’s end but not before stopping over for few hours at the beautiful
valley of Harsil-Dharali for few hours. Harsil-Dharali was 78 kms from
Uttarkashi and it would take us a little below 3 hours to reach there. Vishal
and Bharath had found a cab driver who was ready to chaperone us to Dharali for
1000 bucks. Apparently, he was taking an old Bengali couple to some ashram in
Mukhba which happened to be next to Dharali, across the river Bhagirathi. Though
we were not happy with the steeply increasing fares but we didn’t have another
cheaper and quicker option and so we got on board. In no time we were searing
through the roads winding along the huge Himalayan mountains, who were only
getting bigger and more spectacular with every passing mile. We also began
getting glimpse of the white mountains all around us. The terrain was changing
dramatically. The green paddy fields along the terrace farms gave way to the
steep mountain walls covered with lush green forests on either side of the
river while we continued to climb up the hairpin bends and gain altitude.
We crossed the hot water springs of Gangnani and the small
town of Sunagar, all the while following Bhagirathi which was flowing somewhere
deep down in the gorge adjacent to the road. Suddenly, we found ourselves
moving along the road towards the top of the hill which was overlooking the
wide and beautiful valley of Harshil-Dharali that lay ahead. In no time, we
were descending down along the several hairpin bends and were racing adjacent
to Bhagirathi in the wide flat valley, at an altitude of 2700 metres. We got
down at Dharali and found ourselves in a narrow cobbled street(incidentally the
only one in that tiny hamlet) with around 5-6 hotel-restaurants, on either side
of the road. We had left Uttarkashi in the morning in a hurry and didn’t get
time for breakfast, so the first thing we did after reaching Dharali was grab a
quick breakfast of Maggi and tea.
Dharali Saat-Taal
trek
Our plan was to trek into the forests above Dharali upto the
Saat-Taal (the seven lakes) through the apple farms. To make things easier, we
dropped our backpacks in that maggi restaurant. After enquiring from the local
people about the route to these mystic lakes, we finally ventured into the
forests on the Himalayan slopes. The broken off-beaten path initially led us
through small huts and structures which eventually gave way to apple farms. Soon
we were away from the civilization and amidst apple laden trees. With no-one
around, we quickly climbed the trees and plucked as many apples as our pockets
could hold. Soon these seemingly abandoned apple farms gave way to thick pine
forests, with forest floor covered in green moss and autumn leaves and twigs.
The refreshing air had already soothed our senses and the lack of sign boards
to our destinations didn’t bother us. We were so lost in admiring the towering pine
trees all around us and the lush green forest that we didn’t realize where the
path was leading us. The forest hike, the delicious apples and the coolness in
the atmosphere was all invigorating. We stopped at the first of the seven lakes
that we encountered on our way for a breather and a bite of apple. The place
was almost magical and dream-like.
We weren’t sure about the location or the path to the other
lakes. There was also this issue of getting a vehicle upto Gangotri which was
another 23 kms from Dharali and so we decided to retrace our path and get down
back to the hamlet. We again refilled our pockets with the apples and got back
to that single lane in Dharali, in hope of getting a vehicle.
Every year on Diwali the temple of Gangotri closes down and
the temple symbolically moves down to Mukhba, situated adjacent to Dharali
across Bhagirathi. With decreasing trickle of tourists and devotees, there were
hardly any mode of transportation to Gangotri. There was only one option, a cab
owner asking for 3500 Rs for dropping the 4 of us at Gangotri. We were already
on a tight budget and this option seemed unacceptable to us. So we decided to
wait patiently for a public or shared private option. In the meanwhile, we
explored the surrounding areas including a small temple and a suspension bridge
over Bhagirathi that connects Dharali and Mukhba. All was well until 2 PM but
soon it started becoming colder with the sun going over behind the huge
mountains. We decided to take a break from our relentless wait and had the much
needed lunch consisting of 4 chapatis and aloo-chhole curry with pickle and
daal-chaawal. The hotel owner was kind enough to let us recharge our mobiles
and camera batteries. We even played several games of cards to pass the time.
Vishal and I decided to explore the enticing river bank. It
was a wide flat valley where the fast flowing Himalayan river would spread out
meandering through pebbled and sandy beaches. It was on one of these sandy
beaches slightly away from the hamlet, where Vishal leaned over towards the
river posing for the camera, while I tried to capture him with the mountains
and the blue river in the background. Suddenly, the sand beneath him gave way
and he fell. With one leg in the river and another stuck on the sand he was
dangling precariously holding for dear life. In a flash I rushed to him,
careful not to fall from the sand myself and helped him in regaining balance.
As soon as he climbed out, we released the breath that unknowingly was stuck in
our throats. It was a horrible and unpredictable experience for both of us and
we soon left pledging not to be careless ever again anywhere around a river.
It was 7 PM now and quite dark already and there was still
no sign of any vehicle that would give us lift till Gangotri. The number of
people heading towards Gangotri had also increased. There were almost 9-10
people waiting to reach Gangotri. The wait was finally over when we spotted a
Tata sumo stopping over. In a mad rush, all of us ran to grab any place in that
already full 10 seater. We quickly loaded our backpacks on top of sumo and were
wondering who would be the lucky ones to get on board. To our horror, the kind
cabbie asked all of us to get inside. At first, we thought it was impractical,
inhumane and mundane to even think of stuffing 20 people in a 10 seater and
that too over a dangerous mountain ride like this in pitch darkness. But with
no other option in sight, we decided to give it a shot. So now there were 12
people sitting at the back where normally 4-6 could manage to sit, 5 in the
middle where normally 3 would sit and 4(including driver) in the front row. All
4 of us were the unlucky fellows sitting at the back. Vishal and Bharath had
managed to get seats and Kishan and I were sitting in their laps, with 4 more
people sitting on the laps of other 4. It was one of the longest, most
uncomfortable and painful rides for all of us. But like everything even that
drive came to an end and we finally reached Gangotri.
Gangotri and permit
The opening of the back gate was one of the most awaited
moments in my life. For almost an hour, I was praying for that. As soon as the
gate opened, we spilled out like overflowing milk from a vessel on a gas stove.
The cab had dropped us into the small chowk called auto stand. A small lane
lined up with shops and restaurants on either side led from there right upto
the temple of Ganga, the reigning deity of this small town.
The first task we had was to get the much needed permit to
trek into the fragile Gangotri national park right to the mouth of the river in
the Gangotri glacier. The government had restricted number of people to a
maximum of 120 people including porter. Even though it was late October, the
town would be deserted after Diwali which was hardly 4 days away and there were
very few tourists, mostly foreigner, we still didn’t want to take any risk of
being turned away due to daily quota limitations.
We immediately got to work. It was 8 PM and were sure no
government would be open at this time, but heck, who cares! As per my research
the office had to be somewhere around this Taxi stand. On enquiry, we found a
small path in one of north eastern corner of the Chowk, leading to the Permit
office. We quickly made our way to the office cum living quarter at the end of
the path and knocked at the gate. The door was answered by a man who happened
to be the presiding officer and he said we’ll easily get the permit and that we
should come tomorrow morning.
270 degree glass view
With one thing less to worry about, we trudged along that
single lane which was still bustling with shopkeepers and tourists, restaurants
and diners. We went to the temple which was closed for the day and decided to
visit it again tomorrow in the morning before leaving for Gaumukh. We were
looking for accommodation options when we accidentally stumbled upon this lodge
with Rs 50 per room on the right bank of the river Bhagirathi, opening into the
street. The interesting part was a room that was built on a rock projecting
into the river. Since the top of the rock was sloping into the river, the whole
room seemed like it’ll plunge anytime into the river below. In addition, the
room was covered on 3 sides with ceiling-to-floor sized glass panes, allowing
us a 270 degree view of the river below us and the Himalayan mountains with
forested slopes towering over us. But the catch was one of the broken window through
which cold wind was entering the room. But, I and Vishal were all game for the
room seeking it out as another adventure, while Kishan and Bharath took the
other better room, albeit without the stunning views. We called it a night
since none of us was really feeling hungry after that late after noon lunch or
probably due to the altitude of 3100 metres.
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