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  • Wild wild west Karnataka
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Day 4



Monday, June 21, 2010
Madikeri and around
By the time we got ready, most of the shops had opened and so we went around for shopping. With the help of locals we found the most popular and trusted shop of Madikeri, Ganesh Coffee traders, selling coffee beans and powder. Besides coffee beans, we also bought honey, cardamom and other local products. 
Missibella Bhaat at breakfast, interestingly its served only on Mondays
After a quick breakfast of Misibella bhaat, we decided to check out the local tourist spots. After a `hard bargaining, I was finally able to strike a good deal with an auto wala, who agreed to show us around all the major spots in just Rs 250.


Abbi Falls
Our 1st stop was Abbi falls. Located in a private coffee estate, this waterfall is around 8 KMs away from the city. One has to trek on foot through the coffee estate in order to reach here. But it is worth all the efforts.

  Trekking through the coffee estates & intoxicating coffee aroma  
On our way to Abbi falls through a private coffee estate








Pictursque Abbi falls


 
 
There’s also a hanging bridge from where one can have a good view of the waterfall. After Abbi falls, we went to Raja’s tomb, followed by Omkareshwar temple (which was closed at that time) and Madikeri fort(which currently is the municipal headquarters).






Raja's tomb


 



Who's the killer?


 



Jumping jacks 
 
 Sightseeing culminated at Raja’s seat having breathtaking panaromic views of deep forested valleys around Madikeri. There’s a toy train(ticket priced at Rs 5) at raja’s seat which took us through a small park. The toy train ride reminded us about our childhood. Everyday, at around 7 PM, a  Musical fountain show is hosted at raja’s seat. We thoroughly enjoyed the various Hindi, Kannada, Tamil and English song being played over there.


The musical fountain show
Toy train ride at Raja's seat in Madikeri






Return Journey 
There was a bus for Bhadravati scheduled at 7:30 PM. Soon after the musical fountain show, we rushed towards the bus stand to catch that bus. We just reached there in time and barely managed to get seats. After an 8 hour long journey, we reached Bhadravati. Satisfied and exhausted, we slept peacefully in our beds thinking about our next trip.


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Day 3

Jun 20, 2010

Sunday, 4 AM, Kushalnagar(Coorg district)
After the exodus of Tibetans from their homeland, they were given refuge at several places in India. Besides the popular Dharamshala(Mcleodganj in Himachal), another large Buddhist centre in India is at Kushalnagar in Karnataka. The place is famous for the Golden temple & Namdroling monastery in Bylakkupe. Our plan was to visit that place early in the morning.
As it so often happens, things don’t turn up the way we want. As per my calculations and information gathered from locals, I was pretty sure that the bus from Mangalore would take atleast 6 hours and we would reach only by 5 or 6 am in the morning. But perhaps bus travels faster in night and we reached Kushalnagar at the dead of night (3:45 AM to be precise). It was practically impossible to convince any lodge to give us room at that hour and so we decided to spend the next 2-3 hours at the bus stand. I and Patade thoroughly enjoyed our 2 hour sleep on the bus stand floor.
After getting fresh and having my morning milk, we left for the Golden temple monastery. The auto wala usually charges around Rs 50 for a trip to the monastery which is 5 kms southeast of Kushalnagar.

Golden temple & unique Tibetan culture
Entrance to the Monastary
We entered through beautiful Tibetan style gates. It was early morning and there were hardly any visitors. With beautifully pruned lawns and parks, the place had a soothing aura of its own. We had reached quite early and there was still time in its opening. So we got engaged in photo session.

There were monks all around, praying and singing hyms. 

 
It was fascinating to see them play horns, biguls and drums while prayer. After considerable wait, the temples started opening up. The idols of various Buddhist sages and Gods were colossal and magnificent.

We sat there for quite a lot of time, wondering about the traditions of an entirely different culture. Infact, Patade and Gujar had almost gone into a state of trance. Finally they agreed to leave the place as we had many places left to be seen.
Beautiful Tibetan paintings on the walls
Posing infront of the Lion sculpture
9 AM, Nisargdham
 We got back to Kushalnagar and took a local bus for Nisargdham which was about 8 KMs from there. Nisargdham is an island in river Cauvery, connected to the mainland by hanging bridge. The island, with its thick vegetation was developed to keep elephants and deer. There were ranches and tree houses across the entire length and breadth of the island. It was fun spending time there and watching river Cauvery swelling with murky monsoon water.

Trying to feel as if in an imaginary situation, as if trapped on the island surrounded by swollen river
We also had one of the best home-made dosas in a small eatery joint just outside Nisargdham along with some delicious curry and coconut chutney. My mouth still waters at the thought of that food we had in that small shack. Next, we got into a bus for Madikeri, capital of Coorg and 22 Kms away from Kushalnagar.

2 PM, Talakaveri
Initially, we had planned to visit Dubare forest reserve but we had lost considerable time at Nisargdham and were getting late for Talakaveri (origin place of holy river Kaveri), situated at an altitude of 1500 m. It is roughly 45 KMs from Madikeri.
Scenery on the way to Talakaveri
Most of the public transport bus only goes upto Bhagmandal(a holy place situated at the confluence of Kaveri with Kanika). One has to take private cab or auto or bus(if available) from Bhagmandal to Talakaveri. It’s a 10-13 km uphill jouney through verdant forests. We took an auto(the only option at that time) which charged us Rs 120(for 5 of us) after much bargaining.






It was quite sunny when we started ascending. But as soon as we reached the place, the weather changed dramatically with clouds all around. Soon it became misty and  started drizzling slightly. 

Talakaveri's holy Kund from where river Kaveri originates
Bowing before Godess Kaveri
Goumukh (Cow's nout from where cauvery emerges out)














The temple was newly built and even had a changing room. I and Ayush grabbed the opportunity and took a holy dip in the ‘Kund’ from where it is believed that Kaveri originates. The priest offered special prayers on our behalf while we were standing with folded hands in the freezing waters of the holy Kund. Though it was a religious setup and a divine experience, yet we didn’t forget to get ourselves clicked.
After changing clothes, we climbed barefoot onto the holy peak of Brahmagiri from where one could see confluence of 3 different ranges of Western Ghats, but unfortunately, the clouds and the mist blocked our view. Nevertheless, it was fun.
On the way to Brahmagiri's peak, finding our way through clouds
On the peak of Brahmagiri covered with clouds and mist
We were completely enchanted by the weather and wished to stay there for the night but it’s not normally allowed as Talacauvery is part of a wildlife sanctuary. So with heavy heart we decided to get back to Madikeri and waited for the bus at a roadside shack. We were doubtful if any bus would turn up. But as promised by the locals, it did arrive at around 6 PM.
At a Tea-stall in Talakaveri, waiting for the bus to Madikeri
The return journey was amazing as we were treated with some astounding views. The clouds below us made us feel that we were on top of the world. There were plenty of small shacks on the way downhill where one could get numerous jungle products and variety of honey.  We got back to Madikeri by 8:30 PM



Gen pose on road



Madikeri
We were searching for a decent and reasonable staying option. While we were taking the trouble of finding rooms, Ayush and Gujar were comfortably sitting in a restaurant watching the worldcup football match. We finally booked 2 rooms for the 5 of us for Rs 350 for 24 hrs and had dinner at a Udupi restaurant which comprised of Puri-bhaji-coconut chutney and Masala dosa with Idly. The weather was pleasant and so we went around the town for a night stroll. This was followed by watching football matches till late night.
3 burly boys & 1 singlebed
As always, struggling for the premium space on bed
We gave 1 room to Gujar and Patade and kept the other room and then began the tussle among the 3 of us for getting that premium space on bed. We fought a lot, tried everything and then finally settled down that one of us will sleep on the bedding that was on the floor. And this was decided by a chit. It was  Bisen who gracefully accepted it while I and Ayush spread ourselves onto the bed.

























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Day 2




June 19, 2010
Bisen & Saxena along Tunga
All of us got up in the morning with Ayush's  arrival from Bangalore. As was pre-decided, he was supposed to join us in Shringeri and Santosh was supposed to leave us for Hassan. We decided to quickly show him all the temples, Ashrams, etc and move ahead with our plans.
After talking to several locals, we realized that it wasn’t possible to trek into Kudremukh national park in such persistent rain. AS an alternative, I suggested that we move to Mangalore and subsequently Coorg district. Ever since the leech accident in Kemmangundi, Bisen was wary about the blood sucking leeches in the forests of Western Ghats and so he vehemently supported the Mangalore idea.






 After bidding farewell to Santosh and having a quick breakfast at the shabby Shringeri bus stand, we left for Mangalore. Luckily, the bus followed a route that took us through the Kudremukh national park. The forest definitely looked alluring and at several points we resisted ourselves from jumping off the bus.
We reached Managlore at around 2 PM but here again we were welcomed by torrential relentless downpour.
Raavan
The rain had spoiled all our plans. Even the beaches were closed due to stormy sea. So the only option left was to catch up with the latest releases in a multiplex. True Indians at heart, Bisen and I wanted to go for some bollywood movie, whereas the more educated lot (Patade, Ayush and Gujar) wanted some Hollywood flick. Our 1-stop solution was PVR multiplex just near the Mangalore Govt bus stand.
Being a Mani Ratnam fan, I was hell-bent for Raavan, so I and Bisen went for it. Though the movie was dubbed as flop(probably because of Bachchan Jr’s irritating acting skills), but I immensely liked the efforts of director(I am anyways biased towards Mani sir). The shooting locations, the detailing, the presentation, the background music by Rahman, the supporting actors(Govinda, Ravi Kishan) and the overall narration was worth applauding. I m pretty sure, Bisen was already snoring by interval and he kept nagging me for several days for taking him to such an awful movie. But the movie helped me in strengthening my resolution to visit all the places in Kerala where it was shot and which finally resulted in our Kerala trip.
Madhyanshis at the Bharat Mall in Mangalore
After the movie, we explored the mall, though we didn’t buy anything. We also went to a nearby restaurant serving North Indian cuisines and thoroughly enjoyed the food.


Frm L to R, Aayush, myself and Bisen at Mangalore bus stand

After the food, we went to bus stand & boarded the bus at around 11 PM  which would take us to Coorg. I had planned an overnight bus journey from Mangalore to Kushalnagar (in Coorg district) to optimize traveling and staying expenses.

















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Day 1



Journey Begins

June 18, 2010
After the arduous Ooty-Wayanad trip the previous week, majority of the people weren’t excited about the prospect of yet another trip. And so this time only 5 of us went . Besides the usual Saxena, Gujar and myself, this time we also had Patade and Bisen. Santosh accompanied us only till Shringeri.
Friday, 4 PM, Shringeri (Chikmaglur district)
Santosh enjoying views from our Rs 50 room's balcony
It was raining slightly when we reached Shringeri. Most of the lodges, etc are managed by the Ashram trust and are clean and spacious. We immediately booked a room & were surprised to find that the rent was just Rs 50 for 24 hrs. The views outside the rooms were just fantastic with fields, forest all around and the Tunga river flowing at a distance.
Bisen posing at the ashram lodge's balcony as if it's Taj or Oberoi

After getting fresh we visited the Ashram and the thousand year old Sharda temple. 
Infront Sharda temple
 

Shankaracharya's residence
On the banks of river Tunga



 We also visited the current Shankaracharya’s residence and meeting hall across the river. 

After taking Prasad(rice, sambhar and jaggery sweet) at the ashram’s Bhojanshala, we went back to our room and relaxed. The weather was awesome with intermittent drizzling and cool wind. But we didn’t forget to play cards even at a holy place like Shringeri. The card sessions extended late into the night and eventually we all dozed off one after another.
2 beds and 5 grownups. I was sleeping between Santosh and Bisen and was crushed very badly. None of us were ready to take the trouble and ask the manager for extra bedding. Resultantly all of us slept on the same bed in miserable condition. Nonetheless, it was fun.








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Coffee @ Coorg



Coffee @ Coorg
Shankaracharya, one of the greatest Indian sage and social reformer of 9th century had established not just 4 dhaams but also 4 ashrams across the country. Besides Joshimath(North), Puri(east) and Dwarika(west), the southern Ashram was at Shringeri in Karnataka, not far from Bhadravati(our PS centre).

We had been postponing visiting it over the past 4 weeks due to other priorities like Goa, Ooty, Kerala & Coastal Karnataka but we finally made up our mind to visit this serene place situated deep inside Bhadra wildlife sanctuary on the forested slopes of Western Ghats along the banks of holy river Tunga.

Our initial plan also included trekking into the enticing Kudremukh national park but the trip was marked with incessant rainfall which made us change our plan. And so we clubbed Shringeri trip alongwith Coorg (coffee growing mountainous region of British era) and Mangalore.

Day 3



Monday, June 7, 2010 : A long day
5 AM
As per our deal, we were supposed to vacate his store room by 5 in the morning. But we had hardly slept for 3 hours. And that bloody bastard took 150Rs for giving us a place to sleep for just 3 hours. Gross injustice !!!
We found that the town attraction, the 1000 year old Chennakesava temple opens only by 7 am. So in order to spend the next 2 hours we went to the bus stand and slept on the benches. After getting fresh at the Sulabh Complex we had a light breakfast. I feel uneasy or rather incomplete if I don’t have a glass of milk in the morning. So after brushing my teeth, I enjoyed my glass of milk. 
Meanwhile, the temple gates opened.





7 AM
The temple complex was huge and maginificient and was built upon a huge rectangular platform. The entrance was through a massive Gopuram.  


 








Inside the complex were several big and small temples with intricate carvings, dedicated mostly to various forms of Vishnu.
After spending quality time there and appreciating the 1000 year old architecture, rather an engineering marvel of the time, we went back to the bus stand and waited for the bus to Halebid.







 

8:15 AM
The Giant Nandi at Halebid's temple
We finally boarded the bus to Halebid, yet another small town, 25 KMs from Belur, famous for its beautiful Hoysala built temples. The temples at this place were similar in architecture to those at Belur.

 9:30 AM
As soon as we came out of the temple complex, wondering what to do next, we spotted a bus going to Hassan. As per my calculations, we had to go to Hassan to catch the bus for Shravanbelagola.




11 AM
From Hassan, we boarded the bus for Shravanbelagola via Channarayapatna.
Trivia : Direct buses from Hassan to Shravanbelagola are very few. An easier way is to take bus from Hassan to Channarayapatna, a bigger town and change from there for Shravanbelagola.

1 PM
We could already see the gigantic statue of Jain monk Bahubali several KMs even before reaching Shravanbelagola. Perched on a hilltop, it looked beautiful.
Trivia :
Shravanbelagola is a small but an attractive town built around the twin hills of Udaygiri and Chandragiri. While Udaygiri is where Lord Bahubali’s temple complex is situated, Chandragiri is the place having monasteries where Mauryan emperor Chandragupta Maurya spent the rest of his life as a Jain monk after renouncing his empire.
The place was magical, and I was amazed to see the 2500 years old rock structures on the twin hills.

Delicious Marwari food
Since the place is mostly visited by Jain piligrims from Gujrat, Rajasthan and Madhya Pradesh, there were plenty of homely eateries, serving home-like Marwari-Gujrati food and that too without onion garlic. I finally got what I liked most. After enjoying the “Gehu ki roti, toor ki daal and variety of vegetables with pickles and rice”, we felt like sleeping. But then we didn’t have time to lose. The place has plenty of good staying options (managed by Jain trusts) and locker rooms, so that the piligrims can deposit their luggage before ascending the hills.
The temples 
The uphill climb is definitely not an easy task, particularly for the elders and the kids. Though, there are railings all along the way, but the slope is too steep. The temple complex on the hilltop was mesmerizing and the view of the town from top is just amazing. It was built like a fort with several layers of walls and temples enclosing Lord Bahubali’s statue in the centre.


 


After descending the hill, next we went to Chandragiri and saw the beautiful monasteries. Unfortunately, our camera ran out of battery and we couldn’t take the pictures. But, architecturally, Chandragiri is even more beautiful and well built then the neighbouring Udaygiri.


5 PM
Thus we had finished our temple circuit in Hassan district. We were amazed at our own pace. Satisfied, we decided to get back to Bhadravati. We went to Channarayapatna, just in time to catch the evening bus from Channarayapatna to Bhadravati. The return journey was no less entertaining. We managed to get the back seats and just when we were settling down, a drunken woman came and sat near us. Shabbily clothed, she was doing all crazy stuff and became the centre of attraction of all the bus passengers. Ayush and Apurv were closest to her and were shitting in their pants because she was higly unpredictable. We somehow managed to sit there for an hour and got away from her as soon as there were vacant seats in the front.

Back to Bhadravati
By 9:30 PM we were in Bhadravati. After, savoring the delicious 10 Rs plate Idly sambhar and Mirchi-bada at our favorite stall near the bus stand, we went back to our hostel and slept peacefully planning about our next trip – Wild West Karnataka.


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