Day 3

Jun 20, 2010

Sunday, 4 AM, Kushalnagar(Coorg district)

After the exodus of Tibetans from their homeland, they were given refuge at several places in India. Besides the popular Dharamshala(Mcleodganj in Himachal), another large Buddhist centre in India is at Kushalnagar in Karnataka. The place is famous for the Golden temple & Namdroling monastery in Bylakkupe. Our plan was to visit that place early in the morning.

As it so often happens, things don’t turn up the way we want. As per my calculations and information gathered from locals, I was pretty sure that the bus from Mangalore would take atleast 6 hours and we would reach only by 5 or 6 am in the morning. But perhaps bus travels faster in night and we reached Kushalnagar at the dead of night (3:45 AM to be precise). It was practically impossible to convince any lodge to give us room at that hour and so we decided to spend the next 2-3 hours at the bus stand. I and Patade thoroughly enjoyed our 2 hour sleep on the bus stand floor.

After getting fresh and having my morning milk, we left for the Golden temple monastery. The auto wala usually charges around Rs 50 for a trip to the monastery which is 5 kms southeast of Kushalnagar.

Golden temple & unique Tibetan culture

Entrance to the Monastary

We entered through beautiful Tibetan style gates. It was early morning and there were hardly any visitors. With beautifully pruned lawns and parks, the place had a soothing aura of its own. We had reached quite early and there was still time in its opening. So we got engaged in photo session.

There were monks all around, praying and singing hyms. 

 
It was fascinating to see them play horns, biguls and drums while prayer. After considerable wait, the temples started opening up. The idols of various Buddhist sages and Gods were colossal and magnificent.

We sat there for quite a lot of time, wondering about the traditions of an entirely different culture. Infact, Patade and Gujar had almost gone into a state of trance. Finally they agreed to leave the place as we had many places left to be seen.

Beautiful Tibetan paintings on the walls

Posing infront of the Lion sculpture

9 AM, Nisargdham

 We got back to Kushalnagar and took a local bus for Nisargdham which was about 8 KMs from there. Nisargdham is an island in river Cauvery, connected to the mainland by hanging bridge. The island, with its thick vegetation was developed to keep elephants and deer. There were ranches and tree houses across the entire length and breadth of the island. It was fun spending time there and watching river Cauvery swelling with murky monsoon water.

Trying to feel as if in an imaginary situation, as if trapped on the island surrounded by swollen river

We also had one of the best home-made dosas in a small eatery joint just outside Nisargdham along with some delicious curry and coconut chutney. My mouth still waters at the thought of that food we had in that small shack. Next, we got into a bus for Madikeri, capital of Coorg and 22 Kms away from Kushalnagar.

2 PM, Talakaveri

Initially, we had planned to visit Dubare forest reserve but we had lost considerable time at Nisargdham and were getting late for Talakaveri (origin place of holy river Kaveri), situated at an altitude of 1500 m. It is roughly 45 KMs from Madikeri.

Scenery on the way to Talakaveri

Most of the public transport bus only goes upto Bhagmandal(a holy place situated at the confluence of Kaveri with Kanika). One has to take private cab or auto or bus(if available) from Bhagmandal to Talakaveri. It’s a 10-13 km uphill jouney through verdant forests. We took an auto(the only option at that time) which charged us Rs 120(for 5 of us) after much bargaining.

It was quite sunny when we started ascending. But as soon as we reached the place, the weather changed dramatically with clouds all around. Soon it became misty and  started drizzling slightly. 

Talakaveri's holy Kund from where river Kaveri originates

Bowing before Godess Kaveri

Goumukh (Cow's nout from where cauvery emerges out)

The temple was newly built and even had a changing room. I and Ayush grabbed the opportunity and took a holy dip in the ‘Kund’ from where it is believed that Kaveri originates. The priest offered special prayers on our behalf while we were standing with folded hands in the freezing waters of the holy Kund. Though it was a religious setup and a divine experience, yet we didn’t forget to get ourselves clicked.

After changing clothes, we climbed barefoot onto the holy peak of Brahmagiri from where one could see confluence of 3 different ranges of Western Ghats, but unfortunately, the clouds and the mist blocked our view. Nevertheless, it was fun.

On the way to Brahmagiri's peak, finding our way through clouds

On the peak of Brahmagiri covered with clouds and mist

We were completely enchanted by the weather and wished to stay there for the night but it’s not normally allowed as Talacauvery is part of a wildlife sanctuary. So with heavy heart we decided to get back to Madikeri and waited for the bus at a roadside shack. We were doubtful if any bus would turn up. But as promised by the locals, it did arrive at around 6 PM.

At a Tea-stall in Talakaveri, waiting for the bus to Madikeri

The return journey was amazing as we were treated with some astounding views. The clouds below us made us feel that we were on top of the world. There were plenty of small shacks on the way downhill where one could get numerous jungle products and variety of honey.  We got back to Madikeri by 8:30 PM

Gen pose on road

Madikeri

We were searching for a decent and reasonable staying option. While we were taking the trouble of finding rooms, Ayush and Gujar were comfortably sitting in a restaurant watching the worldcup football match. We finally booked 2 rooms for the 5 of us for Rs 350 for 24 hrs and had dinner at a Udupi restaurant which comprised of Puri-bhaji-coconut chutney and Masala dosa with Idly. The weather was pleasant and so we went around the town for a night stroll. This was followed by watching football matches till late night.

3 burly boys & 1 singlebed

As always, struggling for the premium space on bed

We gave 1 room to Gujar and Patade and kept the other room and then began the tussle among the 3 of us for getting that premium space on bed. We fought a lot, tried everything and then finally settled down that one of us will sleep on the bedding that was on the floor. And this was decided by a chit. It was  Bisen who gracefully accepted it while I and Ayush spread ourselves onto the bed.

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